- Written by Mat Young. Outdoor Professional, Tasmania Guide, and an Ambassador for K2 Base Camp. -
Western Arthurs Traverse Hiking Guide
As someone who makes their living taking folks into the Tasmanian wilderness, I think there’s value in beginning your trip planning by understanding what makes these areas special and what are the conservation values you should keep in mind while you’re out there.
The Southwest National Park, is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area (TWWHA) which altogether makes up a whopping 1.58 million hectares, a significant percentage of Tasmania! It was declared world heritage in 1982 and unlike some UNESCO sites, which tick one or two of the criteria to become world heritage listed, our wilderness ticks 7 out of 10! Four of these are environmental and 3 are cultural, the Western Arthurs in particular meet the criteria of being an outstanding example of ongoing geological processes. The Precambrian (very very old) quartzite has been shaped in such a dramatic way by the glaciation that occurred during the most recent ice age.
Historically speaking, the route through the range has been hiked since the 60s, during those early days it was a 3 week round-trip from Maydena! It’s worth noting how long the drive is from Maydena to Huon Campground to put this into perspective. The current road was initially built to provide access for the construction of the dams which in their day were a hotly contested environmental issue, read more on Lake Pedder here.
The first European to explore the Range, way back in 1830, was George Robinson with assistance from Truganini and others. During his initial circuit around Tasmania, he ascended Mt Hayes and named the range in honour of Governor Arthur. However, as we know, the land had been inhabited long before 1830 and the traditional custodians of that area were the loinnekumme.
In case you have urgency, here is what you will read in this article.
Table of Contents:
At a Glance: What, Where, When, How?
What:
The Western Arthurs Traverse is a 79km (or 57km) lollipop loop beginning and ending at Huon Campground. The route begins by approaching the range through typical Tasmanian Buttongrass plains before ascending the range via Alpha moraine. From there you will traverse the entire length of the range before descending via West Portal and looping back to the trailhead through Arthur Plains. It is a dramatic, challenging and intensely rewarding experience.
Where:
The Arthur range is located in the south-west of Tasmania within the Southwest National Park. The hike begins on the Port Davey Track, the trailhead being located at Huon Campground which is approximately 2.5 hours drive west of Hobart.
When:
The season is roughly December to March (November is typically pretty unstable and after March it starts getting pretty cold). With January and February statistically being much drier than the rest of the year.
How:
The how is the tricky part for most hikes in the south-west, the very remoteness that appeals to the hiker is what makes logistics tricky. Unless you have a friend or a car, transfers are required to get to the trailhead and back and all last-minute purchases like gas and food need to be done in Hobart.
Day 1, not far out of Lake Cygnus. Note the size of my pack on the first day.
Day 1, not far out of Lake Cygnus. Note the size of my pack on the first day.
Where:
The Arthur range is located in the south-west of Tasmania within the Southwest National Park. The hike begins on the Port Davey Track, the trailhead being located at Huon Campground which is approximately 2.5 hours drive west of Hobart.
When:
The season is roughly December to March (November is typically pretty unstable and after March it starts getting pretty cold). With January and February statistically being much drier than the rest of the year.
How:
The how is the tricky part for most hikes in the south-west, the very remoteness that appeals to the hiker is what makes logistics tricky. Unless you have a friend or a car, transfers are required to get to the trailhead and back and all last-minute purchases like gas and food need to be done in Hobart.
Due to the hike’s popularity in recent years there is now a permit system in place for hikers to register their trip, this is intended to manage numbers and environmental impact. You can register for your permit and buy the necessary Parks pass here.
In terms of the available shuttle services, I won’t go into that here, Google is your friend.
Planning: Water, Food, Navigation, Weather and Difficulties
With a hike like this, the name of the game is preparation and self-reliance. Don't go out there without the appropriate equipment and skills or you will become someone else’s problem.
Track Difficulty - Grade 5
Plenty has been said about how difficult and potentially dangerous hiking the Western Arthurs can be, despite that, there were still a dozen rescues from the range in January 2024 alone. The track is given a grade 5 difficulty, this is the highest rating in Tasmania, but what does it actually mean?
The Parks website defines grade 5 as: “Trails suitable for very experienced bush walkers with specialised skills including map and compass navigation and remote area first aid. Tracks are likely to be very rough, steep and unmarked.” To this I would add the ability to hike and route find in inclement weather and the experience and confidence to move on terrain where a fall would be potentially fatal.
The reality of the route is this: Once you begin climbing Alpha Moraine there is almost no flat ground, you’re either going uphill or downhill until you come off the range. The terrain will beat you up and reduce your pace to often less than 1km/hr.
Negotiating the rocky terrain, track visible along the ridge ahead.
Negotiating the rocky terrain, track visible along the ridge ahead.
The weather when it rolls in can reduce your visibility to less than 50m while the strong winds will blow rain into your face hard enough to make it sting and knock you off balance. Even in the middle of summer, the cool temperatures will numb your fingers as you attempt to climb roots and rocks, with a pack on. This is what you need to be prepared for.
On the other side of that coin though, overcoming all of these things to finish the hike is intensely rewarding. Witnessing the 360-degree panorama of untouched wilderness as you traverse the highest points of the range is truly majestic and worth every hardship.
Water
This is a big consideration for the walk, especially in drier months, it’s worth doing some research ahead of time to ascertain how wet it has been. There is a weather observation point at Scotts Peak, which is right next to Huon Campground. You can use the observations available on the BoM website here to make an informed decision about your water carriage.
Generally speaking, you will be filling up water at camp and have few opportunities to replenish during the day. A water filter will be more versatile than micropur tabs in the event that you need to use water from muddy puddles. I recommend having enough capacity to cover 8 hours of walking. For me, I use two +1L bottles, 1 for filtering and 1 for drinking and carry an additional soft flask. But water consumption is an individual thing, you should know how much you need for a day’s walking.
On my first trip to the range I had a really tight window between work commitments so I decided, in my enthusiasm, to do the hike as quickly as possible. Limiting my trip from Alpha to Kappa, I set myself the ambitious goal of doing the 57ks in three days. I woke early on the second day and spent 8 hours hiking from Lake Cygnus to High Moor in constant rain and wind. When I stopped for a snack at square lake the cloud was so thick that I couldn’t see the other side of the lake. That afternoon when I arrived into camp, looking and feeling like a drowned rat, the clouds mercifully parted, bathing me in warm sunlight and revealing the spectacular views that I’d been oblivious to all day.
Weather
Part of what makes hiking the Western Arthurs Traverse so challenging is the unpredictable and violent weather. With the next landmass to the west being South America, the roaring 40’s have a lot of time to pick up moisture and momentum before slamming into Tasmania. As a competent hiker you will have taken an up to date forecast at the very last opportunity. But the reality of hiking the traverse is that the average high-pressure system is shorter than the duration of the hike, so you’re bound to get at least some inclement weather. A good shelter and appropriate clothing are a must, see my gear list below for your minimum requirements.
Food
If you’re planning on doing this hike I would assume that you have done plenty of multi-day hikes. Food weight will be your biggest burden for the duration of the hike, so a combination of lightweight, freeze-dried meals and calorie-dense snacks is the best way to go.
Over the years I’ve learnt that I can perform on a little over 2500 calories per day, this keeps me going at a good clip and limits excessive food weight. This is barely maintenance calories so you need to know your own body and plan accordingly.
Weather
Part of what makes hiking the Western Arthurs Traverse so challenging is the unpredictable and violent weather. With the next landmass to the west being South America, the roaring 40’s have a lot of time to pick up moisture and momentum before slamming into Tasmania. As a competent hiker you will have taken an up to date forecast at the very last opportunity. But the reality of hiking the traverse is that the average high-pressure system is shorter than the duration of the hike, so you’re bound to get at least some inclement weather. A good shelter and appropriate clothing are a must, see my gear list below for your minimum requirements.
On my first trip to the range I had a really tight window between work commitments so I decided, in my enthusiasm, to do the hike as quickly as possible. Limiting my trip from Alpha to Kappa, I set myself the ambitious goal of doing the 57ks in three days. I woke early on the second day and spent 8 hours hiking from Lake Cygnus to High Moor in constant rain and wind. When I stopped for a snack at square lake the cloud was so thick that I couldn’t see the other side of the lake. That afternoon when I arrived into camp, looking and feeling like a drowned rat, the clouds mercifully parted, bathing me in warm sunlight and revealing the spectacular views that I’d been oblivious to all day.
Food
If you’re planning on doing this hike I would assume that you have done plenty of multi-day hikes. Food weight will be your biggest burden for the duration of the hike, so a combination of lightweight, freeze-dried meals and calorie-dense snacks is the best way to go. Over the years I’ve learnt that I can perform on a little over 2500 calories per day, this keeps me going at a good clip and limits excessive food weight. This is barely maintenance calories so you need to know your own body and plan accordingly.
The main map in circulation at the moment is the Tasmap 1:50000 Western Arthur, it covers the entire route. As best practice, you should also download a digital map on an app like Gaia and try to get your hands on a copy of Chapman’s Trip Notes. Generally speaking, once you’re on the range it would be hard to get lost but there are false leads up there and plenty of sections that are only marked by the odd rock cairn, so be prepared to navigate.
Toileting
Human waste is a big issue in pristine environments like this and water contamination is a real concern. Where possible always use the toilets located at campsites, even if that means waiting a little while in the morning until you’re ready to go. If it’s an absolute emergency, be thoughtful about where you go, think about where the water is flowing and try to go somewhere that won’t drain into one of the lakes.
A final handy tip for your trip planning is to join the Facebook group “Western & Eastern Arthurs Traverses.” It’s a handy go to for any other questions you may have about hiking the range.
Notes on the Hike: Itinerary, Side Trips, A-K vs “Full Loop”
If you want to keep the sense of adventure, skip this bit!
As a general rule most people say the average hiker should be prepared to be out there for 9 days, this follows the general itinerary, going camp to camp and allows for a weather day, should you need it. It is possible if you don’t have that long or if the weather isn’t in your favour to hike a shorter version in around 6 days, which comes off the range at Kappa Moraine. Unless you’re very fit you should account for hiking at an average pace of about 1km/hr while on the range.
Day 1 – Huon Campground to Lake Cygnus
This is the day with the most variation, sometimes if the weather isn’t great, people only go as far as Junction, sometimes people go as far as Oberon. Although I wouldn’t recommend this, I’ve spoken to numerous parties who have gone to Oberon on day 1 and opted to bail. I think it’s too much and such a brutal introduction to the range does nothing to help your confidence levels. If the weather is favourable, I think a good, but still tough, first day is Lake Cygnus.
Day 2 – Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon
Once you’re on the range the general rule is camp to camp. The hike from Lake Cygnus to Oberon is relatively moderate compared to the rest of the range but the final descent into Oberon is a good example of what to expect on some of the tougher more technical parts of the traverse. During peak season Oberon is often crowded with people waiting out weather or bailing.
Side Trip: For people collecting Abels a short detour to the summit of Mt Hayes gives an exceptional view of the rest of the range and the surrounding wilderness.
One of the glacial cirques that form the numerous lakes, in this case Lake Oberon.
Day 3 – Lake Oberon to High Moor
Early on this day you may find people pack-hauling a short rock step above Lake Oberon, so if there are some slow folks about it may be a good idea to start early. A lot of the day is spent rock scrambling and in nice weather this is a great day on the traverse. Another good reason to start early this day is the limited space on tent platforms at High Moor. If you get there late you’ll likely have to smoosh your tent between others or perch on the edge of a platform.
For a spectacular sunrise over the Eastern Arthurs and Fed Peak head to the low saddle looking east above High Moor campsite.
Day 4 – High Moor to Haven Lake
The section from High Moor to Haven Lake, known as the beggary bumps, is by far the toughest section of trail with heaps of steep climbing including the crux of the route, tilted chasm. After a very physical day Haven Lake is a nice, sheltered spot to spend the night.
Side Trip: If you haven’t had enough climbing yet, the ascent up to Mt Aldebaran provides an incredible sense of isolation and a unique view of the range that very few people make the effort to see.
Searching for hand and foot holds in Tilted Chasm.
On my second trip to the range we were lucky enough to enjoy 6 straight days of stunning clear weather. We had a lot of fun scrambling on dry rock in warm sunshine while we enjoyed blue skies and wilderness as far as the eye can see. One of my top 5 moments in the outdoors, ever, was a few minutes spent alone on the summit of Mt Aldebaran. With not a breath of wind I experienced a sense of true isolation knowing that I was on a remote peak, alone, days from the nearest trailhead.
Day 5 – Haven Lake to Promontory Lake
The section to Promontory Lake is more of the same though less taxing than the previous day. If you’re starting to get injured or just plain over it this is the day to cut your trip short and come off at Kappa moraine. For those coming off at Kappa you can camp at 7 Mile Creek or take the often-used shortcut which saves some kilometres and gets you back to Junction after a fairly long day.
Caution: The shortcut is hard to follow in places and not marked on any maps so take it at your own risk.
Day 6 – Promontory Lake to Lake Rosanne
Beginning to descend from the range now, the terrain is less technical overall and trends downhill as you camp at Lake Rosanne. Being less trafficked than the rest of the range the trail is less obvious in places.
Side Trip: A short detour to West Portal takes you to the highest point on the Western Arthurs and provides incredible views of the Eastern Arthurs.
Day 7 – Lake Rosanne to 7 Mile Creek
Final downhill to the plains as you long for flat ground, camp at Cracoft Crossing or better yet take a longer day to 7 Mile. Once on the plains your rate of movement will increase drastically and doing longer K’s will put you in a good position to finish the walk tomorrow.
Day 8 – Mile Creek to Huon Campground
Final day on tired legs and sore knees is a long one through the undulating Arthur plains back to your car.
It is absolutely possible to go faster than this and plenty of people do, it’s not uncommon for people to do the Alpha to Kappa version in 3 days or the full circuit in 4-5 days. Reasons to only do A-K are mainly time and distance but also, the section past Kappa moraine isn’t as spectacular as the rest.
Gear List: Minimalist vs Ultralight
Out of every factor that you need to plan for and consider when attempting this hike, your pack weight is one of the biggest, it will directly effect your enjoyment and success on this hike.
The following gear list contains everything I take with me whenever I hike the Western Arthurs Traverse in the peak summer season. The list does not have many luxuries however, I completed the hike comfortably and safely with these items many times without any issues. As a minimalist, I generally emphasise quality and functionality over “Ultralight” when buying gear. It is possible to keep your pack light using more versatile equipment and leaving behind superfluous junk. You should always aim to keep your setup streamlined when doing challenging hikes. Please remember that you should be extremely well-prepared and adjust your equipment to manage the colder weather conditions if you plan to take this hike outside of the peak summer season.
Core Items
Hiking pack ~65L: If you keep things simple and buy good gear this is all you should need.
Tent: A high-quality free-standing 3-season tent, something like a Mont Moondance or Exped Lyra, is a real advantage when setting up on platforms.
Sleeping bag -5 to -10: A -10C sleeping bag will not be overkill up there in the middle of summer.
Sleeping pad: Personal preference but an R value above 3.5 would be ideal.
Stove & Pot: Lightweight gas stove that operates reasonably well in the wind, I use an MSR Windburner.
Minimum 3L water carriage capacity.
PLB: If you don’t have one, don’t go. I have an Ocean Signal Rescue Me: Small, lightweight, simple, no subscription.
Clothing
Raincoat: Goretex or equivalent, pit zips are nice to have.
Fleece jumper: Good quality mid layer.
Synthetic or Down insulated jacket: For camp or really cold days, synthetic would likely be more versatile but Down is warmer and packs down better.
Hiking pants: OR Ferosi or something with similar quality and durability.
Hiking shorts: Lightweight, comfortable, a nice to have on sunny days.
Sun shirt: Long sleeve, quick drying to protect your skin from scratches and UV, Mont Venture or OR Echo Hoody.
Hiking boots: Scarpa Kailash or something similarly burly.
Base layer: Lightweight merino or synthetic, not 100% necessary but would be nice at camp if it’s been wet.
Accessories
Water filter: Sawyer squeeze or Katadyn BeFree, Micropur tabs work too.
Lighter: I carry 2 because redundancy.
First aid kit: Bandage, snake bite bandage, alcohol wipes, bandaids, strapping tape, hydralite & ibuprofen as minimum.
Headtorch: Something that can take both rechargeable and AAA batteries is an advantage.
Powerbank/solar panel & cables: A luxury, not necessary.
Light-weight rope: 15-20m is necessary for some parties to pack haul. Paracord will do the job.
Sunscreen: The UV is not to be understated.